Worli can be a place where to find good food would be debatable. In the past year we have seen a spurt of fine dine restaurants in Mumbai. One of the latest to do so is the Two One Two Bar and Grill. Taking their name from the degree that water turns to steam this fine dine restaurant seems all set to make its imprint on the restaurant scene of dining in south, oh not so south Mumbai.
Nestled in the by lane just off the tall elegant tower of the Nehru planetarium also known as Lotus area the restaurant can almost be missed. There is no loud display or signage just a cool looking exterior. The fine wooden interiors, the tables and lounges were designed by Obaid Hakim. As design goes the fine lines of the restaurant is streamlined so that even the ducts of the air-conditioners are covered with wooden discs. The wooden tables and outside area is pretty decent and a lovely place to sit in in the evenings as one looks into the glassed in kitchen and watch all the hustle and bustle as Chef Mikhail Sahani and his team turn out their magic. The 4,000 square feet of restaurant with wooden floorings has about 120 covers. The restaurant also boasts of its little section which is a private dining area with tall wooden chairs.
The wine display is pretty noticeable on the right. As one enter the bar area has some high chairs and tables where one can stand or sit around and enjoy ones drinks. The wine menu is pretty expensive and in India where generally the host pays it can get pretty darn expensive if you don’t have an expense account. Some of the wines or rather most are marked up to about 11,000 now that’s pretty steep even for a fine dine restaurant their best being the ‘Mas de Daumas Gassac’. There are several martinis and creatively created drinks which are priced at over 700 rupees.
Apart from the elgant ambience the focus is on food and that too good food. the restaurant has seen two chefs in its short span, the enigmatic Alex Bignotti and now Chef Mikhail Shahani have upped the ante of bringing great food to the plate. Chef Mikhail also loves cooking his dishes sous vide wherein food is cooked in sealed packs at very low temperatures and grill cooking.
For starters the asparagus soup with bacon bits or the mushroom cappuccino is a great way to start the meal. The tiny cups make it all the more exciting and one is not spoiling what is to come with a full bowl of soup.
Smoked prosciutto ham placed on fine slices of beetroot with a side of coloured green parmesan slivers and balsamic reduction makes for a colourful attractive presentation. The flavours all blend but stand uniquely apart. For the vegetarian there was finely sliced rolls of brinjal that had been torched on the grill.
The food here is big on presentation and the wood fire baked camembert was totally awesome but I did find the use of bread a little heave, it was there in excess throughout the meal. The menu is extensive with a lot of imported products like Chilean sea bass, crabs, smoked salmon, a whole list of pastas. The pasta we had was a vegetarian tagilatelle with a creamy sauce which was just right and did not drown out the pasta and dotted with truffle. Was wamazingly delicious. While the Spanish spicy sausage topped upon a scallop of mashed potatoes with a little red wine sauce was amazing but at the same time a stomach filler and full of calories. For the vegetarians the menu panders to their vanities with a satisfactory selection. The use of several types of lettuces and cheeses like boccacini, parmesan, camembert more than do justice to ones appetitie. Risottos and pastas are there on the menu but the menu is adventurous enough if you want to be adventurous
For dessert the trio of pannacotta with a hint of caramel sauce, the chocolate profiteroles with dark chocolate could have been done without. The blueberry cheesecake was something to crave for. The textures of the desserts that we had were light flavourful and up to the mark of a fine dine restaurant.
Not to forget that though the place may seem upmarket or snobbish it is not so. The staff are very knowledgeable and helpful and keen to take care of you.
The chefs us the finest of local seafood to create a number of dishes which will have to keep for another day. On the whole a great new restaurant with excellent food. though I would wish they be a bit more practical on their wine rates. An average price would be about 1,500 per person add another 2000 plus if your drinking.
Two One Two
24901992, 24901993, 24901994, 9920838529
12A, Hornby Vellard Estate, Ground Floor, Next to BMW Showroom, Worli, Mumbai
When it comes to fine dining Indian food wise it is rare that a restaurant can pull it off. It is at best that one finds it at high end hotels where chefs are multi trained and time spent on classy contemporary plating and fine service.
It was so at Soma which is nestled between the bar, so much so it looks like a part of it and the Italian restaurant at the Grand Hyatt at Santacruz east. Wide and open with plenty of leg room the lightly lit restaurant is not too garish and well designed with artistic backdrops of paintings and hangings all depicting the moon in some way or the other. With a feeling of space around the feeling of aristocratic comfort comes upon one quite easily.
When it comes to Indian food it does take a lot to satisfy my. One was pleasantly surprised to find that the menu was well designed and planned with fare from across the country. The range of dishes went from the familiar to dishes one just had to samle as they were new and inviting.
To know about the cuisine here i have to deviate to explain the Grand Trunk road and what its cuisine is all about. Built centuries ago during the Maurya dynasty and extend by Sher Shah in the 16th century in order to build up his empire they created a culinary masterpiece along the way. The Grand trunk highway is the trade life line from Pakistan running all the way to south india 2,600kms long it runs from the Eastern regions of India to it western regions. Its travellers which are many encounter a host of cuisines along the way.
One can encounter the same experience here where the food is simplistic at best, flavours mild and well balanced and not leaving an after taste of chilli. The open kitchen where one can witness kebabs being made and swirling roomali rotis being deftly handled over an upturned kadhai and other meates and vegetables grilled to perfection live in front of you and is the centre peice of attraction of the restaurant.
Dishes that one is familiar with are on the menu, like Tandoori prawn, baby pomfret marinated in curd and a hint of ajwain or whole spring chicken cooked with spices over coal for that smoky flavour.and if one likes all the drama at ones table then try the Raan e Sikandari which is a blend of spice only known to the chef. The meat almost fall off the bone it is so tender. The dish is well presented and carved at the table. For the vegetarians i definitely recommend trying the Shakarkandi ki tawa chaat or the fusin based Tandoori Malai Broccoli.
We feated on the chapli kebab which was a soft mince patty with mint chutney a dish originating from Pakistan and afghanisthan, the delicacy of which was great. So was the Nalli Nehari, rich lamb shanks cooked in a thick rich brown sauce, a dish excellent to be had in the cold winter months. The dhudiya kebab was something pretty to look at the thin slices of panner rolled up with spices and herbs and cooked made a pleasant starter to the meal.
The best part of any Indian meal is the breads. Hot fresh breads out of a tandoor can often make or break a meal, I hate the taste of cold rubbery rotis. The laccha parathas were to die for, flaky and crusty on the outside they made the meal even more pleasurable. Soft rooomali rotis and naans of different types were to be had if required.
Dishes to be tried out are the Tariwali ghost, pomfret curry, the home style curry called Tarriwala murgh.
The restaurant has an extensive wine list and though we did not venture there, the waiters were quite knowledgeable and informative about the cuisine and the menu.
They do have a sumptuous buffet at times and as service goes in this restaurant it is impeccable and though may be a bit slow for office goers who are always in a rush, the leisurely wait can often be memorable coz you know that there will always be great food coming out of any restaurant at the Hyatt.
Soma
The Grand Hyatt
Santacruz East
Off the western express highway
Dinner 7:00 pm – 12:00 midnight
Average cost per person rs 3,000 taxes not included
CHAPLI KEBAB
Ingredients
Lamb boti – 280gms
Lamb kidney fat – 80gms
Red chilly powder – 4gms
Garam masala powder – 2gms
Green chilly whole – 2gms
Chop ginger – 4gms
Chop garlic – 4gms
Saffron – 0.5gms
Crushed coriander seeds – 2gms
Powder pomegranate seeds – 5gms
Javetri elaichi powder – 2gms
Salt -5gms
Before making balls mix mince
Ghee -50gms
Chopped onions – 60gms
Chopped coriander – 5gms
Method
Add all ingredients to the meat and mince it.
Shape the mince into small balls and flatten it by your palm.
Take a fry pan, add some ghee then put the patty and cooked on slow fire
Cook the patty until it is golden brown in colour
Serve hot with lachha & chutney
DUDHIYA KEBAB
Ingredients
Paneer (cottage cheese) 04 nos – 200gms
Turmeric powder – 5gms
Potato -100gms
Pomegranate seed – 35gms
Dry mango powder -3gms
Garam Masala – 2gms
Sugar -1gms
Ginger garlic paste -15gms
Red chilly paste -5gms
Sahi jeera – 2gms
Ghee – 50gms
Coriander – -25gms
Cheese – -25gms
Bread crumbs -100gms
Salt -2gms
Method
Cut paneer into slices and marinate it with tumeric powder, salt and keep it aside.
For the filling – heat a pan, add sahi jeera, ginger garlic paste and red chilly paste. Stir all these for a minute, add grated potato, dry mango powder, pomegranate powder, garam masala and sugar.
Take the marinated paneer and spread the filling equally and make another layer of the same, just like a sandwich. Roll the paneer carefully and refrigerate it for 15mns. After 15mns remove the paneer roll from the refrigerator and coat it with bread crumbs.
Heat a pan, add ghee to it and pan fry the roll untill golden brown. Drain the excess fat and serve it hot with mint chutney.
The essences of flavours, the smell of fresh herbs does something to bring out the best in almost any meal. None comes out more than pure European food. The concept of dining out family style is novel at best and often one may be left disappointed by many of the brunches Mumbai has to offer. The differences are many from mediocre to grand stand displays.
What is brunch all about? The very word is a portmanteau of breakfast and lunch, a concept of a late breakfast and early lunch thrown into one. The term was coined in Britain in 1895 in Punch magazine.
The renaissance hotel in Powai stands upon a slope overlooking the lake. Add to it the splendour that in my books serves the best brunch is Fratelli Fresh.
As one enters the warmly designed restaurant with its Italian marble one is impressed by the vast display all along the restaurant. With kitchen designed to serve up the freshest of produce. It would be best to take a leisurely seat in one of the various setting areas provided. From casual areas to semi private areas to private areas within an al fresco atmosphere.
Fratelli fresh is the new restaurant of the Renaissance and is headed byChef Vincenzo Zizza who is as animated as his wonderful food. His jovial manner as he comes to your table makes you wonder what is in store as he guides you through the menu.
On being welcomed with a fresh glass of sangria which is a pleasant concoction of wine and orange juice one can heap on a pile of crisp salads and a host of lettuces like radicchio, rocket, iceberg onto ones plate, salads like insalata caprice which is thinly sliced tomatoes and fresh mozzarella or a an octopus and potato salad which has a mixture of textures and flavours to salads of exotic vegetables like mushroom, zucchini and coloured capsicum, some of pasta tossed lightly in olive oil, amongst a host of other make one relax eat and enjoy a leisurely chat.
It is a joy to watching food being cooked in front of you, for some this is an enjoyable experience and the kitchen runs most of the length of the restaurant, divided into four sections where one can saunter through ordering fresh pasta to be cooked to order like green gnocchi, orange taglioni or my favourite fettuchini.
The crowd seems to be around the grill, a waitress stand in attendance and shows you trays upon trays of fish like Grouper, sea bass, red snapper,salmon, king prawns and lobster. Grilled plain with just lemon and salt or you can have it tossed in real home made tomato sauce or garlic and oil, the heaped up plate appetiser accompanied with a glass of champagne can be a meal in itself.
On display are a host of breads, warm foccacia stuffed with olives and herbs, basil flavoured baguettes, a range of vinegars namely balsamic and fresh olive oil to go with it. Well to accompany the bread on the table are cheeses like brie, gorgonzola, fontina, and a variety of goats cheeses. To be sure we did tuck into these with relish. There is something about bread and cheese. The flavours just make one feel whole.
The cold cuts section has plates of whole, parma ham or procuitto which is dry cured ham often uncooked so slightly tough, ham, salami Napoli and mortadella which is pork ground to a paste then shaped into a salami sometimes stuffed with dried nuts like pistachio or pine nuts, all finely sliced paper thin alongside and surrounded by a variety of olives. Eaten along with a platter of salad and warm bread the feeling of having over eaten looms high.
After a well deserved break we headed to the main course section where a the hot kitchen table which is laden with roasts of beef, lamb and pork, the meat roasted and showing off the various stages of doneness from rare to medium to well done and all served up and accompanied with baked potato and meat based suaces. And if one wants to have a little moisture to ones meal, there are gravy dishes like veal ossobucco and pan fried chicken leg cooked in garlic and rosemary and served with typical risotto rice which is a stick rice with a bit of crunch to it.
At this point one is doubtful of having space for dessert. After classically showing off almost every Italian dish there is nothing to beat the dessert section which is full of pies, tarts filled with fig and pear to fruit and custard a classical pannetonne. The Budiono cremoso a delightful dessert made of Italian cream and caramel is something one should truly try out. One cannot forget the tiramisu of which they have two varieties.
As brunches go this is a true gastronomic experience and one must try this out if ever one is this side of Mumbai
Non-Alcoholic – Rs.1500 + taxes
Alcoholic – Rs.1800 + taxes
Champagne Brunch – Rs.2500 + taxes
For reservations, call: 91 22 66927540
Michael Swamy
Italian cuisine has evolved through social and political changes through the centuries, its not all about pizza and pasta as one may see in the movies not is it that pasta drowned in a blob of sauce, nor bell peppers and tomatoes which were introduced to Italy only around the 18th century, that we see in restaurants around India.
Italian cuisine rests on using seasonal and the freshest ingredients, no strong spices or herbs to mask the flavours of the dish. Its all about tasting the flavours of the main ingredients that constitute a dish. Ingredients and dishes vary from region to region and have become synonymous with the wines grown in the particular area. There’s something about cuisines tasting better in their homeland that that holds true. The Greeks, the Vikings, the Moors have all left an influence on Italian food. Italian cuisine is still known by its regional accents. Italy only became a whole country in 1861 and became culturally connected during the world war.
Regional differences aside the food is flexible and innovative built on variation. Its cuisine has a strong influence on the European cooking. It was from Italy that sweets, preserves were presented to the western world. With recipes that use leaner meats and healthy fish based on healthy cooking techniques like poaching, broiling or grilling al a lot of healthy Olive oil. This has changed from the heavy diet of the peasant cuisine to become the refined Italian cuisine we know of.
A few of the famous Italian regions are Fruili known for its bacon and cheese, the famed risotto from Veneto and Lombardy along with heavier sauces and spicier dishes.. piedmont is famous for its wines and its prosciutto, the famous parmesan cheese that goes over pasta dishes come from Emilia-Romagna. White truffle which is very expensive comes from Tuscany and the beef dishes from Tuscany are very well known. The influence of ancient Greece is to be found in the cuisine of Sicily, dishes of goose, the playing of sweet with sour flavours and wine.
An Italian meal never goes beyond three to four courses unless it is for a special occasion. A meal usually begins with an aperitif like Campari or cinzano along with an Antipasto (Starter) which may be hot or cold. Followed by Soup and Pasta. The second course is the main dish which is mainly meat or fish with a strong trend towards wild game especially in Tuscany. Contorno (Side Dish) of steamed or poached vegetables or a salad to go with the main course. And finally Dolce (dessert) followed by a strong shot of espresso or black coffee accompanied by a liqueur like grappa or limoncello.
I am not a fan of the Indianised version of Italian cuisine so the less said on that topic the better. With introduction of several foreign brands of wine available its easy to enjoy a good bottle of wine with a bowl of pasta not drowned in thick sauce.
The arrival of the humble Cucumber as we know it in 2030 B.C. to India from the Tigris (Iraq) valley created the euphoria of pickling products in brine. Pickle is given its due mention in the Bible and Ayurvedic texts praise its nutritive properties down the ages. Aristotle praised the curative powers of pickled cucumbers and Napoleon fed his Army on them. Certain fruits like lemons and others rich in vitamins were preserved and fed to sailors to prevent scurvy and other ailments on long voyages. 4,000 years down pickled pleasures have taken the world by everyone’s palates and taste buds and pickles sharpen tongues in virtually every part of the world.
Sweet, hot, spicy, tangy describe this side-dish, of which like no other there is such variety, encompassing almost every vegetable, fruit, meat, fish and roe we know, being used as a primary ingredient. Combinations have been tried out and several have emerged as all time favourites. Mixed with spices, sugar, tamarind, jaggery, vinegar and oil, pickling helped preserve foods. The fine art of pickling derives from ancient expertise, and hallowed seasonal ritual.
The heart of the matter is to utilise the flavours and ingredients of the season. Not only is this economical but colours the imagination in seasonal flights of fancy.
Pickle making in India is a national past-time and nearly every woman’s culinary achievement from ages past down to our times. Even in the hustle and bustle of cities the lady of the house prides herself on serving “homemade” whenever possible.
The term pickle in our time encompasses a wide range of products including (Relishes) which are vinegar preserved, and fruit and veg pickles which are oil based. Some pickles age like wine and mature after a while and even keep for years. The use of certain spices like ginger, asafoetida, turmeric and saunf (cumin) are used to help digestion. Certain spices like clove, cinnamon and ginger are used for their warming properties. Cumin and cardamom are cooling spices.
The variety is endless. You name the ingredient and it is used in a pickle. But there are hot favourites. In India there are the universal lime, mango and chilli pickle, and the temptingly sweet mango chunda to name a few. You can find pickles for the diet conscious, oil-free kind; pickles full of vitamins with mineral rich ingredients. There are also pickles made using just the rind of certain citrus fruits tossed in chilli or ground aromatic spices.
Consumed along with every type of cuisine pickles are international titillations of just not taste but appetite. Consumed just plain with chapattis, rotis, bhakris, puris or as an accompaniment with rice or a main dish pickles make often the meal of the day and often a handy snack for the unexpected guest
The whole pickle-making syndrome in India was once a family tradition with inputs from all members who helped in the chopping, cleaning and various stages of production. Songs and tales were part of the process. Right from grinding spices during the hot months by travelling gypsies to the cooking by the khansama (cook) or housewife. The final result required that the pickle lived up to past claims of quality.
In Northern India, women pickle the seasonal vegetable and fruit with different spices to give each a unique flavour. Some vegetables are pickled in brine with turmeric, ground mustard and chilli powder to flavour.
All other places for other Indians, pickles are flavours of childhood which linger in the adult mind. Memories flood of tangy pickle with hot puris, hot phulkas smeared with ghee, eaten with sweet chunda. On growing up, habits remain. In the South Indian Thali the ritual of a pat of pickle and salt in the top left hand corner, continues firmly. In South India pickles are stored in porcelain jars (Bharnis) a legacy of the active trade with the Chinese. The Maharashtrians also follow the style of serving pickles on the left side of a thali. These accessories to a meal express the style of the lady of the house, and due mentionand praise of the range of chutneys and pickles is customary etiquette towards the hostess.
In North India, pickles are served in a container with compartments giving one a choice which includes wedges of lime and pickled onions.
The traditional Parsee meal is preceded by the community’s famous date chutney served with mini chapattis. So like the various traditions and customs of India with its variety of dialects every state has its speciality of pickle.
The Maharashtrian “East Indian” Christian community are famous for Kasaundi and Balachao pickles. The Bengali favourite is a pickle made with brinjal (egg plant or aubergine), which is a spicy mix made for any auspicious occasion, and a sweet pickle made of lemons which are salted and dried in the sun then mixed with a thick sugar syrup.
The colourful folk of Punjab infuse their vigour into creating a five textured pickle. The Punjabis combine mangoes, cauliflower, radish and carrots marinated in a mixture of mustard oil, jaggery and spices.
According to some people, there is nothing to beat the pickles of Gujarat. From sweet to mild to hot to spicy, in oil or dry combinations the pickles are unforgettable.
In India there are over 4,000 manufacturers who produce and sell pickles. India’s exports of pickles are an estimated $8 million for around 15 tonnes. Local consumption is approximately 50,000 tonnes. Branded varieties are sold at a premium and are target-oriented for export. Major producers like Nestle (Maggi), Bedekar (Ruchi), American Dry Fruits (Mother’s Recipe), Uma (Parle Foods), Kholas Pickles, Priya, Praveen and others rake in a large part of the National & International market for pickles.
Pickles are firstly the fruit of labours of love, and the songs and the culture that surrounds their making. Pickling is the simple procedure for preserving fruits, meats, fish, vegetables in salt, or spices or oil or combinations of the three. The combinations are versatile. The same mango pickle prepared in one part of the country tastes different from that prepared elsewhere. Whilst recipes may be the same, the oils or vinegars used could be different, resulting in difference of taste. For example mustard oil is used in North India and Gingelly oil used in the South. Many picklers prefer palm vinegar others settle for synthetic vinegar.
The adjusting of proportions of spices can overpower or downplay the outcome. These balances have been tried and tested over the centuries to give a degree of perfection. Nowadays you just sit back and savour the flavours.
So why do pickle recipes for the perfect pickle still go wrong. Like the carpenter who blames his tools you can sometimes put the blame on ingredients. Using the best quality ingredients is a first principle to whole pickling process. But spices can go only so far to cover up the flavours produced by ill-chosen ingredients. Or as is well known naturally-grown produce tastes different from doctored varieties which are mass produced. Also, since levels of sweetness or sourness vary, there might be a problem.
Another aspect is the preparation of spices. These are used raw, or roasted, whole or powdered. Combinations are sometimes and to a certain degree measured, but to the housewife, better understood as pinches or handfuls as in handed down tradition.
Plain commonsense, with regular practice, trial and error and accumulated experience will truly enrich the great pickle.
Parel an area of Mumbai which in recent years has seen a lot of change, so much so that it has now been described as upper and lower Parel. With many of the many businesses having moved to this part of Mumbai the area was in need of change.
Lying between all the major hotels of South Mumbai and the Hotels of the suburbs, lies the newly constructed ITC Grand Central Sheraton & Towers in the very heart of Parel. The ITC Grand Central Sheraton & Towers group is a well known hotel group across the country. The Parel hotel whose interiors have been designed by Chandu Chedda from Hong Kong boasts of several restaurants on its premises and a few have become the watering hot spot for the locals.
Its major Indian restaurant Kebabs and Kurries is located on the ground floor, a short walk through the lobby. On entering its majestic portals and being greeted by a polite hostess one is escorted to ones table. Unlike most Indian restaurants the décor is minimalist at its best and not at all gaudy or overly decorated. Long drapes cover the French windows. And a few large Urns are placed around.
Divided into three styles, one area the shamiana is designed to look like one is sitting under a tent. The front area of the restaurant has wooden floors and a neat and simple design and seating plan. The centre, a slightly elevated area gives one a feeling of being in a machaan, is the exclusive dining area of the restaurant. The area of the last two has a ceiling of wooden beams, from wooden tables to marble topped tables, one can be seated at chairs or low benches. All make for a different type of dining experience.
Having done away with table cloths simple cotton runners are placed down the centre. The cutlery is all stainless steel and not that heavy chunky kind which makes eating a chore, but as one is eating Indian one invariably eats with ones fingers. Though one eats off white porcelain plates the food is served up in traditional copper bowls and platters and the occasional porcelain a kind of mix and match.
The four menus the restaurant has have been well researched by the Executive Chef Rakesh Upadhay and his team. It is one of the only restaurants that I have come across which has a separate menu card for the vegetarians and Jains and which is quite extensive. Another creative aspect on the part of the management is the meal for a single person as the portions would otherwise be quite large. Lunches are usually the executive platter though one can order from the a-la-carte menu, and on Sunday lunch there is the Sunday Bubbly with unlimited champagne being served.
The dishes served here are from India and Central Asia. All not just cooked on the tandoor, there are Kebabs which have been cooked on Tavas (iron griddle), angethis (grill) and koofteh’s which are cooked in a pan.
The curry menu is also divided into dishes by the style of its preparation. From Dum to Qormas , Qaliya, Salan and Dopiaza each style giving a unique and diverse perspective to Indian cooking and dining experience.
Talking with one of the chefs he explained that most of the recipes used are unique in that they have used rare spices and herbs following ancient recipes which have then been perfected to suit today’s palate. Some of the foods have been cooked for as long as 24 hours like the Haleem a dish of lamb and broken wheat and Dal Bukhara. In fact the dal cooks 24 hours 365 days of the year, old mixed with the new as is traditionally done giving way to a most delicious aroma and taste.
Other speciality dishes to the restaurant are the Unnat which is split urad cooked with lotus root and colocasia. From the Non-vegetarian menu the Murgh Angaar is truly delicious, which is best accompanied by a delicious Uzbeki Naan or a Naan-e-Bahkumaach (Whole Wheat). The chefs recommendation of Burani Gosht and Nihari Gosht is something I am looking forward to on my next visit. Another dish which I have probably tasted for the first time was a delicious Raw Papaya Pickle.
If you have a sweet tooth there is a delicious but rich dish made of broken rice and moong slowly cooked in milk and enriched with khoya and goes by the name of Yaquti. The other desserts to try are the Shahi Tukra Asal and Dum ki Pooran, and Kulfi Falooda which no menu would be complete without.
All in all the menus have a different repertoire and a gastronomic experience to go through. The ambience which could pass off as fine dining and good food for the price, is seriously let down, by the food presentation, which is too simple and hurriedly done. There is a wine and liquor menu to go with the food. Service at the restaurant is done by smartly dressed waiters in a style of Kurtas and maroon sashes. Young and enthusiastic their manners are pleasant. With an eye for display the semi circular kitchen is glassed in and one can see the food being prepared. Watching the chefs at work and eating deliciously hot food does make this a restaurant worth visiting again.
Timings Lunch 12.30 – 3.00 / Dinner 7.00 to 12.00
Address ITC Grand Central Sheraton & Towers
Dr. B. Ambedkar Road Parel, Mumbai 400 012, India
Telephone 91-22-2410 1010
Website www.itcwelcomegroup.in
Word count; 897
Michael Swamy, swamy Cottage, 11/A, D’Silva Wadi, Prabhadevi Road, Mumbai 400025,
“I think it is a sad reflection on our civilisation that we can and do measure the temperature in the atmosphere of Venus…..”
“We do not know what goes inside our souffles”
Nicholas Kurti (1969)
As kid chemistry was never my strong suit. In fact I probably hated it. What did I know that being a chef is all about science in the kitchen. It is a moment of theatre, magic the mixing and extracting of flavours. Some subtle some strong all just to titillate the palate and all this from mastering cooking techniques. The thought of taking scientific process to understanding the change in chemical properties of foods and how it alters in the presence of certain minerals, heat levels to explore novel flavour combination. This science of cooking is one step to enhancing our understanding in the pairing of foods.
Molecular technology is a technique where chefs use existing scientific methods to understand how the physical and physio-chemical properties of water can alter the taste and texture of foods. It allows chefs to look at food at a molecular level, breaking up flavours and tastes to define and dissect them. In turn, understanding the science behind pairing flavours and exploring novel flavour combinations.
Rooted in the ideas of Nicholar Kurti a scientist, Herve This and Harold Mc Ghee a food writer the idea of Molecular cooking took on a big way. It took two extraordinary chefs to capitalise on this unique cooking experience and in 2006 was voted the best restaurants in the world. When introduced at ‘El Buli’ in Spain by Chef Feran Adria who says “One can experience a whole range of emotions through food, and every customer for the experience of it”. A restaurant that opens just six months of the year the remaining six for experimenting well that’s a new one for creativity.
The next restaurant was The Fat Duck with Chef Heston Blumenthal. ‘The idea behind all this dissection of flavours is to surprise, to re-invent and de-familiarise to sensory impact on the palate by isolating flavours and enhancing others.’
Exchanging ideas on a global scale that’s what today’s world is all about. The label molecular mixology is all about taking known drinks, breaking them apart, then going through a tasting wheel to identify the flavours then putting it all together again and building it differently but giving you the same drink on a whole new level. All this is achieved by using foams, jellies, fruit and spice caviars and a whole range of stuff. Have you tried a jellied Gin and Tonic and creating the fizzy feel with chemicals like agar agar, sodium carbonate with citric acid or having your martini in mousse form with a olive on top or a jellied vermouth. Its about putting the fun into drinking. Take for example a Manhattan with a layer of sweet and bitter foam giving you a taste of what’s to come and gently paves the way to the gist of the drink.
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What is amazing is the way the foams and gels and tiny caviar are put to use. Made from using natural products such as those extracted from soya or the alginates in seaweed to give particular textures and consistencies. The foams use egg whites and gelatine, the airs use soya lecithin, the caviars are pearls created by dropping a mixture of a flavouring compound with alginate into a calcium chloride solution that forms a ‘shell’ to give a caviar like look and feel.
Molecular mixology is all about experimenting. The place to start is experiment with the sweet/sour balance first. Think of something as simple as honey, lemon and water. Once you get that sense of harmony between the ingredients you develop balance which is what you need at the heart of every drink. Then raid your cupboards jams and all kind of syrups can be put to use. Take different teas, make them up, allow them to cool and use them as your dilution. Hints of subtle spice are something the indian palate has a mastery of, ‘less is more’ though! And finally use lots of ice and always shake to wake your drinks up not put them to sleep. A martini, vermouth or wine mousse makes ones drink look like a cocktail snack now that’s an innovative way of looking at things. Green tea being prepared in front of you then placed in liquid nitrogen and a few seconds later a sorbet with alcohol pored over it. Tiny pearls of vodka and cranberry juice that looks like salmon roe or caviar is a reduced mix of the two liquids thickened by an agent then squeezed into cold grape seed oil. The tiny caviar then washed and served up.
The interplay of temperatures is novel in this manage a trios of drinks. Three shot glasses one filled with ice cold chopped strawberries, one with heated apricot liqueur and Khimad (a spiced drink) and the third filled with a mixture of whipped cream with maple liqueur. The idea is three levels of matter solid, liquid and plasma or three temperatures from cold to hot to room temperature. The idea is then to first taste the strawberries then the spiced hot liquor and then the cram what with each leaving a different sensation in ones mouth. How different is that to having it all mixed up in one glass.
The great skill and creativity and a sense of warmth and service which is at the heart of Indian hospitality is phasing out. It is an art which needs to be reintroduced. The fun is all in the making and the presentation. It is that moment of theatre that engages imagination and expectation. To quote Harry Johnson one of the great culinary masters of the 19th century
“Serve iced water immediately with every drink.
Mix the drinks above the counter where the guests can see.
Mix them in such a way as to be neat, clean and scientific.
Mix in such a way as to draw attention” and lastly smile with your eyes!
‘Respect alcohol respect yourself’
Stark walls, and old tables and chairs, paint peeling off the walls but it is this what makes this 90 year old restaurant endearing. Its typical old style reminiscent of the restaurants which were found all over Mumbai. Sadly few remain and this is one of them, though its surroundings may have gone up-market but the restaurant has stayed the same. Simple and functional and no frills. So unique this restaurant that it opens only from 11:30 a.m. to 3:30 p.m. and is closed on Sundays.
Situated in the business area of Ballard Estate the restaurant is packed after 1.00pm and its best to get there early if one wants to get a seat. With no alcoholic drinks just aerated beverages and their lemon soda can be a tad too sweet. Raspberry soda is a Parsee favourite and this is one of the few places in Mumbai where it is available
The cuisine is very Parsee and Iranian. The are well known for their Berry Pulao (Rs 180) which is a version of the Iranian zereshk polow. The tiny golden brown tart raisins brought in from Iran especially for this dish. The golden fried Bombay duck (Rs 80) which is a fish native only to the Indian shores is dipped in batter and deep fried a delight and is preety much finished off in a few hours. From salli boti (Rs 120) with mutton cooked in a tomato based gravy and fried potato chips on top one can also opt for a chicken version (Rs 120) of this dish. The lacy Parsee cutlets in both chicken and mutton may be a bit greasy but for the moment one doesn’t care. To end the meal Caramel Custard never fails to please. Though out of place in a restaurant like this, they also serve Mishti Dhoi, a Bengali sweet. There’s not much by way of vegetarian fare and though it has a limited menu the restaurant does a roaring parcel business.
Britannia is one of those restaurants you go to when you are feeling nostalgic and want to taste the kind of food you tasted years ago. Good food in a restaurant with Spartan décor. The restaurant certainly can do with a paint job and sprucing up. The old marble table tops and typical Irani Style Chairs still exist and not the plastic copies. Check table cloths may be out of style but look good here.
As far as food presentation goes it is basic and served on melamine plates so don’t expect much. The staff are pleasant but lack a certain class and the gracefulness of the Iranians is certainly lost now. I always leave a big tip considering that they are paid so little. The average cost per meal can be between Rs 300 to Rs.6.
THE ADDRESS
Britannia & Company Restaurant
Opposite New Custom House
Sprott Road, Ballard Estate, Mumbai, 400038 022 22615264
022 30225264
China House
Spicy Sichuan cuisine takes centre stage at China House at Grand Hyatt in Mumbai
Taking the literal meaning of the name forward, China House embodies the sanctity of a Chinese home with aplomb. Imposing wooden doors lead into a serene open air garden punctuated with small pools teeming with fish, bamboo plants amongst tables placed under pagodas. Step indoors into a Chinese alley, a smorgasbord of Chinese condiments overflowing from wooden buckets, Chinese curios, artifacts and pottery on display. A huge wine library and clear glass work stations positioned strategically across the restaurant help in opening up the space, whilst enhancing an interactive dinning experience. Dinning tables, bar stools for lone diners, semi private and private booths create varied seating options for patrons whilst ensuring your own space.
Keeping the Indian palate in check, China House specializes in home-style Sichuan dishes, alongside the famous Peking Duck. Five different work stations- appetizers, noodle and dumplings, Peking duck, wok and desserts further specialize in dishing out authentic fare. A variety of dumplings – steamed and served with condiments are delicate parcels of flavor. The steamed prawn dumpling is awesome as is the vegetable dumpling.
The Peking Duck, roasted in a special oven is a real treat; dig your fingers as the chef craves the duck at your table. Bite into slivers of roasted skin laced with sugar-crunchy yet melt in the mouth, followed by dollies stuffed with meat, finely sliced cucumber and hoision sauce. Assembling your dollies as per your taste gives you the chance to get personal with your food. Tender melt in the mouth Lamb Shanks Hot Pot is lamb simmered in a spicy thin sauce to be polished off by Chinese buns. Sink your teeth into an old Chinese’s tale with Beggar’s Chicken-stuffed with shitake mushrooms, pickled cabbage, and pork, wrapped and roasted in Lotus leaves. Dan dan noodles is a popular and typical Sichuan dish-spicy garlicky peanut and sesame sauce served over noodles or watch the chef skillfully toss Hand pulled noodles. Apart from serving a varied list of alcoholic and non-alcoholic drinks, the wide range of Chinese teas available here should not be missed. The Jasmine pearl tea is not just aromatic but also a visual treat to watch as the bud unfurls slowly.
The desserts are as varied and interesting and provide a sweet ending to a spicy meal. The chocolate and ginger ice-cream with a red currant sauce is interesting with an aftertaste of ginger. The fresh fruit bowl with vanilla and orange ice cream is light and refreshing. Attention to detail, good presentation and a formal yet friendly atmosphere, China House scores high. An average meal per head would be approximately Rs2000, not including taxes. For a slice of China closer home, this is ideal.
Grand Hyatt Mumbai
Off Western Express Highway,
Santacruz East, Mumbai 400 055, India
Phone: +91 22 6676 1234
Direct: +91 22 6676 1117
Walking across the foyer and at the other end is Baluchi, the Indian restaurant of The Intercontinental The Lalit. Neatly decorated with interesting panels, paintings and pots the restaurant is comfortable. The spacious room and well spaced tables make for ones conversations to be heard. In the evenings a gazal singer plays out his melodies.
On entering the restaurant one is greeted in the traditional Indian way, a nice gesture to visitors who come here to dine. The hotel caters to a lot of transit passengers and so the food is designed for their tastes. Not too hot and spicy and just right. A delectable blend of tastes and flavours.
The wines (Rs 600 – 1,200) a glass and beer are ample and so is the alcohol though a bit too pricey
The restaurant is further brought alive in the evenings with a gazal singer singing live in the restaurant.
The menu is refreshingly different and brings a whole range of innovative Indian dishes from Baluch to one’s plate. Customised for the international palate the range of dishes is thankfully not exhaustive. The cusine from Baluch is not the heavy gravy mix that one finds at most Indian restaurants and one could go through several courses without the feeling of being stuffed. One suggestion I can make to the menu and that too for any Indian menu is to mention the presence of nuts in their gravies and dishes. Some interesting dishes Saunf Sheer Sherbet a light and cool drink made of fennel and mint, a starter of a dish called Balkush Rubina which was king prawns marinated with yogurt Barrah Baluchi spiced lamb chops and Doodhia Kebabs made of cottage cheese sandwiching a mix of potato, tomato and spices.
Main courses like Bharwaan Aloo a rich mix of baked potatoes and fruits, the Dum Murg ka Salan a dish of baby mutton marrow in a sour tomato gravy was an interesting combination of flavours. Bhuna Saag and an assortment of rotis. The Subz Chilman ki Biryani was flavourful though by this time one was really stuffed.
For dessert I would recommend the Sheer Jamun a unique take on the regular gulab jamun. The average cost of a meal can be from Rs 1,000 per person and above.
The menu has been created by Mumbai born Master Chef Mohammed Shokey who moved here after a stint at ITC Grand Maratha Sheraton. Hs aim is to present a taste of Baluchistan cuisine. He states “while some people express themselves in painting, writing and singing, my passion is cooking.”
The staff are knowledgeable and pleasant and are willing to serve. A pleasant place to chill out with friends and enjoy a good authentic culinary experience.
Address
Baluchi
Intercontinental The Lalit
Sahar Airport Road
Andheri East Mumbai 59
Tel: 66992222
