Food Styling & Photography

Food, glorious food! What wouldn’t we give for that extra bit more… Nothing sums it up better than Oliver Twist in the popular Charles Dickens tale. Critiquing food, whether everyday wholesome fare or an elaborate gourmet meal, comes naturally to most people. But, can everyone really be a good critic and elect cuisines around the world that tantalise and excite the palate, prepping it for a true culinary adventure.
Cooking in itself is an art, a craft, a skill, refined over generations or grafted by training. What is finally put on a plate however must be “the real stuff”. A careful selection of produce fused with a creative eye, and presented with designer expertise is vital for a genuine lifestyle experience. So what distinguishes a true master chef from you and me?
Writing about food is everyone’s a dream job. Sadly one has to wonder if it is really just about the free meals? Critics and food guides fall into two broad categories, those who know food and write well, and others who write well and have a sparse understanding of good food or restaurant practices.

Looking at a variety of blogs one often sees tons of wrong or misinterpreted information being passed off as an informed opinion.
It does not require a trained palate or much skill to put together a glossary of restaurants and most food lovers think of themselves as experts or connoisseurs. But, that doesn’t make them good food critics. An example of exactly this kind of amateur publishing is the Times Food Guide. It’s a known fact that The Times of India accepts paid advertorials about restaurants which can be rather misleading especially when the printed word has so much respect. A few other publications are quite simply paid to give a restaurant a fantastic review.
At some point you must ask yourself, would I go to tax consultant for a professional opinion about food? Many chefs whose food is as mundane as their ego have marketed themselves as a “master chefs”. It’s the rock star syndrome – all show with no substance, spewing books written by a host of staff ghost writers leaves you doubting ones credibility. Anyone can rehash material off the internet and call themselves a food connoisseur.

As for food shows of Indian origin, well I’ve learnt to tune off. From the nonsense shown on NDTV it only goes to show that the marriage of good research and great showmanship seems like something of a myth when speaking of Indian broadcasting media. Research is the key to everything. I was recently called by Star TV to be part of the crew putting together Master chef in India and was totally appalled by the lack of knowledge and the hasty mess to put it together. Its no wonder their work is so mediocre. One wonders what lies in store for is the future of food media, let alone reality television. Is anyone ever going to stand up and be different? Is it all about the TRP’s? When is the media going to wake up to its ethical responsibility of providing true value and knowledge?
The point is that we have such a dearth of real talent being showcased instead of so called wannabes who only want their 15 minutes of fame. Some say give these wannabe foodies some slack and guide them. My reply, what for? A wee bit of knowledge can often be more dangerous than none at all.

How does an expert critic make his assessment? A “good inspector” would have worked in the food industry for a while, and during a typical investigation tour-week would sample about 14 cuisines, writing reports, changing territories, and work incognito. Discretion is vital to getting all your facts right.

A competent guide presents an independent and objective view of high quality standards. Some like Zagat put together the findings of public surveys or the Michelin guide who have inspectors who visit a restaurant anonymously not once but several times to make a decision.
The word gourmand comes to mind and it meant something in the food world alas it seems so passé now. The internet blogging industry is rigged around money and advertising. Gone are the days of inspired writing and good reading. Peter Mayle’s Bon Appetit!, a record of his “Travels through France with Knife & Fork and a Corkscrew”, Anthony Bourdain’s notes and quirky quotes, Adrian Adra, famous restaurant guides and surveys of Michelin, Gault-Millau, Zagat, AAA (American Automobile Association), or Fodor’s Restaurant Guide, are exemplary works to look up to, learn from and perhaps even aspire towards becoming. One wonders thought if there truly is anyone or media house courageous enough to take up that challenge?

Does raw food have to be boring and unappetising? Why are we finding it difficult to cross that barrier of green salad which is anything but green? Are we so devoid of imagination that one is doomed to boring meals and dinners?
Change is inevitable and keeping up with the culinary trends of our Hollywood and Bollywood stars has brought about a whole change in the way people see food. Encouraged by the stars food has evolved into one of tastes and flavours.

The rediscovery of a diet based on natural foods, its impact on ones persona has brought about fine dining in its truest sense. Promoted by chefs like Charlie Trotter, Thomas Keller and Roxanne Klein, who going back to organic and just plain raw cooking. While organic is now, relatively common terminology, what matters is the distinct difference in taste, flavours, and awareness, of the food one is consuming.
Organic Food, a term coined by Lord Northbourne in 1939 is a holistic approach to farming and the Organic industry developed into a phenomenal following in the 1990s. “Even while organic is now, relatively common food terminology, it is the distinct difference in the, taste flavours, and awareness, that the food one is consuming, one which is free of genetic modification that makes it different from what we are used too.”

Organic Farming is practically unheard of in India, or is it? For generations we have eaten food grown without pesticides. The current permission to allow genetically modified food into the country is going play havoc on the Indian systems forever. We have been so used to organic that one wonders why it is so expensive at all the high end stores.

The adage, Know your farmer, know your food’ gives a personal dimension to the whole process. Organic farming is namely, the absence of chemicals, using of natural pesticides. In the case of livestock, feeding them a healthy diet without the use of supplements and growth hormones is a practice that is endorsed now but in a country like ours, growth hormones are a recent addition. It is not simply the absence of illness, but the maintenance of physical, mental, social and ecological wellbeing.

Organic food produced locally also brings down the cost due to ‘food travel’ viz that is the distance the food has travelled from the farmer to the consumer. It is the way to go, to be eco-friendly. “ 50% of the organic food production in India is targeted towards exports. So why are we settling for less for organic food is not only a “concept” popular in the others countries. Coupled with the Slow Food Movement founded by Italian Carlo Petrini heathy foods and eating trends has it made inroads in the culinary world, while preserving cultural cuisine while making people aware of what they are eating and its origins?

In Raw Cooking complete meals are made using no cooking methods whatsoever, foods are processed through techniques like soaking, blending and straining and temperatures no more that 50 degrees centigrade, all just to achieve fresh flavours with plenty of visual appeal. In India, with so much of raw foods to be had be it chutneys sauces, fruit and vegetable juices that are available on the streets. The concept of raw salads is not alien to India we just don’t experiment or promote it. This living food diet is made all the more interesting when using wholesome foods and ingredients, if only they were easily affordable and available.
Taking ones health into account, and on the nutrition front, organic food is known to contain 50% more nutrients, vitamins and minerals, as against chemically grown food, of which you would have to eat twice as much to get the same amount of minerals. Organics takes one away from genetically modified food which is a cash cow for producers of mass food.

Chefs feel that the changing mindset of consumers will bring about a change, but with time. One needs to eat healthy without the encumbrances of a higher price package. The bottom line is, one’s health is in one’s hands and there are many consumers who are unaware of the difference between natural and organic. Many purchase products labelled as Natural thinking that they are Organic. The impact of organic food on Indian cuisine is going to be dramatic in the times ahead.

Stores like Natures Basket, Navdanya, Hypercity , Fab India, Bharti Delmonte’s Field Fresh and a few others, are making a concerted effort to promote organic produce. But is the price just? Due to the lack of volume Organic food is often priced between 10% to 60% higher than that for regular produce. Too expensive, also means a change in one’s shopping budget, if one were to shop just for organic produce. In India; consumers prefer organic marmalade, organic strawberry, organic tea, organic honey, organic cashew butter and various organic flours.

Trikaya Farms near Pune have pioneered in bringing healthy food to the consumer at affordable prices. They ask: ‘Why healthy food should be exported while we have to eat pesticide-laden food. Volumes notwithstanding, it is the effort that makes the whole enterprise a worthwhile proposition. ‘

Raw food cooking is all about making food look good, finely sliced vegetables to look like lasagne sheets, or artistically done colour coordinated foods imaginatively put together. One can use a host of vegetables and spices like chilli, cinnamon to name a few.
Take for instance a combination of lettuces or raw vegetables (not root vegetables like potatoes, yam etc which require cooking) topped with a sauce made of raw nut paste. a dehydrator is a piece of equipment often used to dry out vegetables and pastes instead of reducing it over a flame. these pastes are then used as sauces to accompany the main dish.

Chefs have created pastry shells that require no baking by dehydrating pastes made of seeds like sunflower and, flax . Creating desserts of fruit pastes and purees, raw chocolate and coconut is one of the exiting stuff they have created. Nuts ground to a pate and the milks drawn out make for interesting sauces, or the milk mixed with fruit purees to create healthy juices. Another dish one can try out is to simply marinate fresh figs with some honey and spice like cinnamon, bottle it and use as a preserve.
Artistry and creativity is not for the chef alone, you can do it equally well at home with simple gadgets like food slicers and mandolins which can literally shave fine strips of fruit and vegetables, or, using one’s oven at a very low temperature to dry out food. Presentation also plays a special role in attracting people, thankfully without the chemicals that one would find in molecular gastronomy.

Delving into your kitchen you can move away from plain salad to a creatively sliced vegetable plate, to creations of edible art. Changing foods to the Indian palate is not the key to keeping your food healthy.
Think of something as simple as honey and lemon and water. Once you get that sense of harmony between the ingredients you develop a balance which is what you need at the heart of every meal. Hints of subtle spice, is something the Indian palate has a mastery of, ‘less is more’ though! The masalas one is used too has taken away our taste for tasting food as food.

What is gourmet for one is staple food for another, Broccoli may be staple for the Europeans but gourmet for us, on the other hand chickoos, mangoes and papayas are exotic fanfare for others, eating healthy has never been easier, we are spoilt for choice, now it’s just putting your mind to it and experimenting, remember even chefs make mistakes.

There are several books out there and the ingredients close at hand. It’s just a matter of stirring up ones imagination for want of a recipe. Roxanne Klein and Charlie Trotters book ‘Raw” you could find dishes like Heirloom Tomato Soup, Pad Thai, Cucumber lime water. Your taste buds are probably all set to open up. So get ready and go for it.

© Copyright Michael Swamy

Cheese! What is it with cheese. Ever been to a real party where there’s no cheese? Forget it. In one form or other the presence of cheese makes its presence felt. Be it as is, or on crackers or in a bake, a cake, with pasta, or as a fondue. Like fine wines, a product of fermentation cheese has been consumed and relished since ancient times.

Cheese & Wine “Combining Flavours”
Another combination is that of cheese with wine a combination which leaves behind unforgettable flavours.

The nuances of a fine wine? As you swirl a wine glass for its aroma, its flavours which can be strong or mild, fruity like berries, of flavours like chocolate, liquorice or vanilla or spices like cinnamon and clove and of the oak-barrel in which it was aged. The balance of all the flavours in complete harmony goes to the making of a fine wine which is full bodied or light-bodied wine. Coupled with the flavour of cheese a certain harmony of blends producing a third and unique taste.
Pairing wines with cheese is relatively easy strong cheeses with strong wines and soft mild cheeses with delicately flavoured wines. Here are some suggestions to help you along.

Soft mild cheeses like Brie, Bucheron, Camembert, Muenster, Pave Affinois (France), Feta (Greece), Fresh Mozzarella and Gorgonzolla (Italy) go well with light reds, medium reds and fortified wines like sweet sherry, Beaujolais, Cabernet, Sauternes and some whites like Chenin Blanc, Champagne, Sauvignon Blanc, Sancerre and sweet dessert wines.

Some soft cheeses like Panela (Mexico), Graddost (Sweden), Monterry Jack (U.S.A.), Havarti (Denmark). Fontina (Italy) have a mild but fuller flavour and are best served with full bodied or sweet whites like Chardonnay, Reisling, Chenin & Sauvignon Blanc, full bodied reds like Bordeaux, Rioja, Barolo, Barbaresco, fruity reds and fortified wines.

Semi hard cheeses like Cheddar, Stilton, Cheshire (U.K.), Chevre and Roquefort (France), Gouda (Holland), Cotija (Mexico) go well with whites like Sancerre, Gewürztraminer, Champagne, Chardonnay and Chianti.

Hard cheeses like Cambozola (Bavaria), Derby, Wensleydale (U.K.), Smoked Gouda (Holland), Pecorino, Asiago (Italy), Manchego, Zamarano (Spain), Edam, Emantalier, Gruyere (Swiss) are best accompanied by most whites and light red wines. Hard, fully matured cheeses go best with full bodied and sweet whites and light reds.

Blue cheeses are truly a cultivated taste. You can try a soft creamy blue like Gorgonzola, firmer and semi-hard blue cheese, Oxford Blue, Stilton, Fourme d’Ambert, Gorgonzola, Roquefort. The blue veins in blues are due to a fungus added during the manufacturing process. This cheese is best accompanied with sweet white wines or full bodied or fortified wines.

Goats cheese seem to demand crisp whites, light reds and fortified wines unlike sheep’s cheese which call for full-bodied whites, medium-bodied reds.

A classic flavour is that of Stilton and Port Wine. White port blends well with hard crumbly cheeses like Wensleydale and Cheshire and Ruby Port goes down nicely with goat’s cheese. Vintage and late bottled Port wine make for unique flavours when accompanied by soft, creamy, and cow’s milk cheeses like Fromage blanc and Camembert.

The world of Cheese
The knowledge of gourmet cheeses, now readily available, is expanding. Increasingly the cultured palate of the old and young is on the look out for the finest in good taste. Specialty cheeses especially are a value-added product. Food adventurers are on the look out for cheeses with character, going beyond cream crackers and cheese, when entertaining. The qualities that make a specialty cheese vary from origin, to processing styles, supply, milk source, and extraordinary packaging. But the most common denominator is a constant high quality standard which makes a cheese unique.

Some of the leading specialty cheeses are goat’s cheese and organic cheeses particularly those of European origin. Creating awareness about what is special is at present a very popular trend. Holding demonstrations, gifting free samples and cooking classes in eateries for patrons, as a way of educating them on crafted cheeses helps to build discerning tastes. Another selling promo is when chefs by invitation create specialty dishes based on crafted cheese.
Speciality cheeses are no longer the sole preserve of celebrity chefs and restaurants. They are becoming a household standard for up-market clientele. Using cheese in cooking also adds a special dimension to taste and presentation. Eaten by itself or accompanied with crackers and fine wine, cheese is a protein rich meal.

The difference between specialty cheese and commodity cheese is that the former is usually available only at delicatessens. Also the variety of fresh cheeses is limited but the creations exciting. The idea is not to eat more but to eat better. In India speciality cheeses are still a novelty and learning to age cheeses is an art which requires skill and patience. The breed of artisan cheese makers is rare. I have come across two. ABC Farms in Pune have created a whole gamut of cheeses and the farm’s latest is a cheese wrapped around olives and aged. Also there are cheeses from Manali made by an Italian, whose ricotta, assiago cheese which goes well with Gewurztraminer, Riesling, Sherry or Sparkling wine is now available in Mumbai and Delhi.

There are three types of cheese soft, medium and hard, and several factors determine the economics of cheese making. These include ingredients and duration of ripening which could be anything from a few weeks to years. Cheddar and Parmesan are the most expensive.
The varieties of cheese are boundless. From cheese with herbs or peppers, to smoked cheeses, mascarpone, and marbled cheese, cheese matured in wines, oils and vinegars.

Bon Apetit
© Copyright Michael Swamy

Chef Giuseppe

Place of Work ‘STAX” Hyatt Regency Mumbai

Meet the handsome and charming Chef Giuseppe Zanotti, the Chef de Cuisine at ‘STAX’ the Italian restaurant at the Hyatt Regency in Mumbai. His work had carried him to places like Pattaya in Thailand where he worked for 2 years at ”The Bay” restaurant of the Dusit Thani Hotel. While in Bangkok he took part in the Asian Cooking Contest Competition and won a gold medal for his creation of ”Capellini al nero di seppia con capesante” which is ”Black ink angel hair pasta,
asparagus and sea scallops”. Believe me its delicious. The Bay restaurant he was acclaimed as one of the best Italian restaurant in Thailand from: Tatler Magazine. A short stint in Singapore at the Marina Mandarin Hotel which was rated as: ”One the best top Italian restaurant outside Italy.”
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Having trained and studied at Salsamaggione Terme (Parma) Italy which is one of Italy’s finest culinary schools and a three year diploma (IPSAAR) in Food & Beverage Chef Giuseppe Zanotti went on to opening and working at the Red Wall in Piacenza Castell San Giovanni. A fine dining
restaurant and from there to France Paris to be exact at the Italian restaurant D’ Angels.

Hailing from Emilia- Romagna in Italy a province called Parma. Parma is the richest region for food it has the best cold cuts, salamis, parmesan cheese, grana padano chese and many others. Its balsamic vinegar and home made pastas are legendary. A lot of these ingredients are flown in but a lot is made in-house 40% to be exact. A staunch believer in home-made pastas like black ink pasta, tortelli and ravioli are made from scratch daily and so are the sauces like a delicious fresh Pocini mushrooms sauce, stocks and gravies.

Taking the STAX menu to new heights Chef Giuseppe has introduced 7 styles of home made pastas and three styles of risotto. Using the regional style of cooking from Parma, local sea food like sea bass and tuna play a major role in the fare served up at the restaurant. His favourite dessert creation is a balsamic ice-cream with marinated strawberries is creative and
delicious and give a whole new twist to it.

The advantage of STAX’s open kitchen is that you can see your food being prepared. Many customers like to sit at the counter running parallel to it and watch and eat. Chef Giuseppe’s style of involving himself in the entire process is a genuine love and feel for his food. Steeping in to show the staff right from the basics is something very few chefs are attentive to.

The needs of the clients are important and he makes it a point to chat with the guests, make suggestion and even make dishes off the menu for those who so wish it.

Wine has always brought about a union of sorts with food. And the Italians know how to take things to new heights. The Donnafugata and Carpene Malvoti labels are award winning labels and well known for a high level of quality. These wines make for a great accompaniment to the meal at STAX.

The ambience of STAX is large and inviting and the chrome and mirrors give it a totally romantic and warm feel at night. The restaurant is open for dinner only.

© Copyright Michael Swamy